Ryan Ensby
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Engine Hoist Won’t Lift? (Fix It Fast)
If your engine hoist / shop crane / cherry picker pumps but won’t lift (or lifts then slowly drops), the safest way to solve it is to diagnose in a short, no-load sequence. Most failures come down to one of four things: overload at your boom position, release valve not fully closed, air in the hydraulic system, or low/incorrect hydraulic fluid.
Safety first: Don’t work under a suspended engine. If the engine is already off the mounts, lower it to a safe support or block it before troubleshooting.
3–5 minute diagnostic (no-load)
- Visual check: bent boom, cracked frame/welds, missing pins/R-clips, damaged hook/chain, seized casters, or any visible oil leak. If anything structural is damaged, stop and replace the hoist.
- Close the release valve: turn clockwise until firmly seated. Don’t overtighten.
- Test empty: pump the handle with no load.
- If it won’t lift empty, go to Step 4.
- If it lifts empty, skip to “Lifts empty but not loaded”.
- Quick bleed (air purge): with no load, open the release valve, lower fully, pump 10–20 times, close the valve, then retest.
- Check fluid level: lower/retract the ram fully, remove the fill plug (per your hoist manual), top up with manufacturer-recommended hydraulic jack oil / hydraulic oil, then bleed again.
If it lifts empty but not with the engine attached
This is often overload at your boom position. Many “2 ton” shop cranes are only rated for 2 tons at the shortest boom setting, then drop as the boom extends.
- Read the boom-position rating sticker (or markings by the boom holes) for the hole you’re using.
- Shorten the boom if possible.
- Confirm what you’re lifting (engine + transmission if attached + accessories + any fluid still in the assembly).
- Confirm the hook is directly above the engine’s lifting point to avoid side-load/binding.
If you are clearly within rating and it still won’t lift under load, suspect air/low fluid or hydraulic weakness under pressure (internal bypass, valve issue, worn seals).
If it lifts, then slowly drops (“creeps down”)
Creep is a safety issue. If your hoist will not hold position reliably, don’t use it to lift an engine.
- Re-seat the release valve gently (do not overtighten).
- Inspect for external oil leaks at the ram rod, gland, pump body, release valve, or fill plug.
- With no load, raise the boom and observe. If it still creeps down consistently, it’s likely internal bypass (seal/valve).
Symptom → cause → test → fix (fast table)
| Symptom | Likely cause | Safe test | Fix / next step |
|---|---|---|---|
| Pumps but won’t lift | Release valve partly open, air in system, low fluid | Close valve, test empty, quick bleed | Bleed, then top up fluid (ram fully lowered). If still dead empty, service/replace ram. |
| Lifts empty but not loaded | Overload at boom position, poor geometry, hydraulic weakness under pressure | Check boom rating at current hole, shorten boom, align hook above lift point | If within rating and still fails, bleed + fluid check. If still weak, replace/rebuild ram. |
| Lifts then creeps down | Valve not seating, internal seal bypass, valve leak | Test no-load creep, inspect for leaks | Do not use on an engine. Replace/rebuild ram before lifting heavy loads. |
| Jerky / spongy pumping | Air in hydraulic system | Cycle no-load: open valve, pump 10–20x, close, retest | Repeat bleed once. If it persists, check fluid level and look for leaks/contamination. |
| Visible oil leaking | External seal failure or loose plug/valve | Wipe clean, cycle no-load, look for fresh oil | Remove from service and reseal/replace the ram (or hoist) before lifting an engine. |
How to bleed air out of an engine hoist (conservative method)
- With no load, lower the ram fully.
- Open the release valve.
- Pump the handle 10–20 times.
- Close the release valve.
- Pump to raise and re-test. Repeat once if needed.
Note: Some models have specific purge steps. If your hoist manual differs, follow it.
Hydraulic fluid: what to use (and what not to use)
- Use the fluid type recommended by your hoist manufacturer. Many shop cranes use hydraulic jack oil / hydraulic oil.
- Do not use brake fluid, motor oil, alcohol, dirty/mixed fluids, or anything not specified by the manufacturer.
- Always check/top up with the ram fully lowered.
Repair vs replace (practical)
- If the hoist is structurally damaged (bent boom, cracked welds, elongated holes): replace the hoist.
- If it leaks or creeps down consistently: often the fastest fix is replace the long-ram jack (or rebuild if parts/support are available).
- Before ordering parts: record the hoist model, ram model (if labeled), and how it mounts.
Start here: Engine hoists: start here (hub)
Related guides:
Related guides
- How big of an engine hoist do I need?
- Best engine hoist (buyer guide)
- What size chain for an engine hoist?
- Where to hook an engine hoist chain (safety)
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